Friday, 3 July 2020

Anglo Saxon Select Fyrd - Tumbling Dice

Set AS3.
8 bods and 8 kite shields. Two poses were repeated so didn´t get painted.
This lot are the "rich kids", landowners, freemen so unlike the huscarls they have thier own colours on thier shields.
Close ups
Pose on the far right is one of the repeated poses
 Pose on the far left is one of the repeated poses
As with a lot of the infantry sets from TD, wether the repeat poses are the same in each set isn´t clear. If I had got two sets of the above, it could have shown wether they have the same repeat poses or wether the repeat poses are random.

Tuesday, 30 June 2020

Anglo Saxon Huscarls with Spears - Tumbling Dice

Set AS2 - Huscarls Spear.
8 Bods in the set, 7 different poses so one pose didn´t get painted. As I´ve noted before, which pose is a repeat in the set you get and wether it is the same repeat pose or the repeated one is  random choice from the other poses,   I can´t say.
Also included are 8 Kite shields.
They got painted up the same uniform colour scheme as the Anglo Saxon Huscarls with Axes set.
Close ups.
The pose second from the right was repeated



Saturday, 27 June 2020

Tumbling Dice Vikings - Complete Range

46 foot and 12 mounted bods. If I had painted every Bod from each set it would have brought the numbers up to 48 foot.
Bods from all 8 Viking sets as shown on the Tumbling Dice site HERE:...unfortunately without pics but now they are all here :-)

VK1 - Viking Huscarls with Axes.
Full set review HERE:
VK2 - Bondi Chainmail. 
Full Set Review HERE:
VK3 - Bondi Leather Armour.
Full Set Review HERE:
VK4 - Skirmishers Bow
Full set Review HERE:
VK5 - Skirmishers Hand weapons.
Full set review HERE:
VK9 - Mounted Vikings
Full set Review HERE
VK10 - Viking Command Dismounted
Full set review HERE
VK11 - Viking Command Mounted.
Full set Review HERE:
Total TD Viking army

And now with the other makes, Strelets, Emhar and Zvezda.
118 foot and 14 mounted
Left wing (or right from the commanders point of view)
Centre.
Right wing (or left from the commanders point of view)

I think I might have enough Vikings for now :-)




Wednesday, 24 June 2020

Viking Bondi (Leather armour) - Tumbling Dice

Set VK3. 8 Bods, 8 shields (4 flat/4 curved), 4 spears (one with a wimpel), 3 swords,  two axes and a bow.
Half the set have what can be considered "leather armour" (Cuir bouilli), the other half, fur jackets.
Leather.
I suppose, if wanted, the armour could be painted black and they could have swords (or sword sheaths) attached to thier backs..ala most protrayals of Vikings in any "historical period" series/film
Fur. Not sure what fur it´s supposed to be or if it´s sheep skin. Does sheep skin count as fur?
No..didn´t think so.
Though, I´m Pretty sure it´s not mink or sable. Wolf?

Sunday, 21 June 2020

Viking Bondi Chainmail - Tumbling Dice

Set VK 2.
8 bods with 8 shields (4 lenticular, 4 flat) 2 spears and two swords.
I used a couple of flat shields left over from other TD sets and two from my spares box. I also added an Axe from one of the other TD sets.
Close ups


Tuesday, 16 June 2020

Viking Skirmishers - Tumbling Dice

Titel on the web site from TD "VK5 Skirmishers  Hand weapons"
8 Bods, 6 shields ,  4 spears, (two of them with pennons), 3 swords, 2 long handled axes, and 1  bow.
Close ups.
Skirmishers? Ok, why not but Most of them wouldn´t look out of place in a shield wall


Saturday, 13 June 2020

Viking Archers - Tumbling Dice

Over at TD they are labelled, VK4 Skirmishers Bow.
8 Bods, two of them repeat poses, 8 shields, 4 curved, 4 flat.
I painted the 6 non repeated poses.
Close ups
The two repeat poses are on the far right. As I written before, repeat poses could be any of the poses shown .
I decided not to add shields as they could be used for the other sets.

Thursday, 11 June 2020

Airfix 1/76 WWI MKI Male Tank -Take 2

A break from D.A.B´s*...Another go at an Airfix WWI tank.
I´ve built the Male version (Here) and the Female version (Here) before, but this time it´s in honour of a prolific Model builder and long time member of the Airfix Tribute Forum, who sadly left us this year after a long fight with cancer.
I used the colour scheme on the back of the box. I stuck to the pattern as much as I could.
A bit of the build. I didn´t take pics of all stages as, after the base coat had dried,  I got carried away and got the thing finished in two two hour sittings.
Fitting the parts together
Base coat, a mix of ocre, white and a slight drop of mid green.
The brown was plain chocolate brown, the green - mid green with brown added, the black - well, Black 
Tracks painted with a mix of Anthracite/Black and brown. Highlight with a mix of Anthracite and black. 
I glued the tracks straight onto the body using second glue. 
*D.A.B´s = Dark Age Bods

Saturday, 6 June 2020

Viking Command Dismounted - Tumbling Dice

Set VK10.
8 Bods, 8 shields (4 Lenticular, 4 flat) 7 different standards.
One of the bods is a repeat from the Viking Huscarls with Axes (VK1)
I added a shield to the same pose in that set,  so in this one he doesn´t get one.
I´ve added an Axe left over from one of the other sets to one of the Standard bearers. He can be the head Bod for the Huscarls with Axes.


The Bod with the winged Helmet. I´ve painted one that same pose in the Viking Comanders post,  but he doesn´t have the winged helmet, he doesn´t have a cloak and his beard is different.
Is there then Variation of  how some of the poses are equiped or is the one in the first post (when I assumed they were TD Bods) an older version? 

Monday, 1 June 2020

Mounted Vikings - Tumbling Dice

Set VK9.
8 bods in 8 different poses.
2 pennons, 2 lances/spears (1with a normal point, 2 with boars heads), 3 axes, 2 swords and 8 shields (4 curved, 4 flat)
And now the difficult or better said, confusing bit.
No nags. Well, not with the Bods, they came seperately. They came with the order and they are numbered as C1066H1 - Pony/Light horse. Each Nag set has 4 nags so to mount the whole crew it needs 2 x C1066H1. Within the total of 8 nags there are 5 different poses so I suppose it depends as to which bag you get as to the pose selection.
Also, are the nags included in the price of the Bods? TBH, I don´t know. The invoice isn´t 100% clear. Best to ask (Per E-Mail) first.
Close ups and the 5 different Nag poses.
The Mounted Viking Command set has the nags included with poses 1 - 4
6 is a repeat of 4
7 is a repeat of 2
8 is a repeat of 1
Which means, Poses 3 and 5 are the variables from both sets

Thursday, 28 May 2020

Bod Painting (My Way)

As with all things there´s more than one way to peel an orange and that´s goes for adding colours to Bods.

Over the years I´ve been asked "what paints, what brushes?" do I use,  or seeing Questions like "how does one stop the paint flaking?" so an attempt at answers below.


The painting method Shown below is a fast (ish) one to create numbers of finished bods to fill up a wargames base and stand the "it looks ok from three feet away" test.



Make of Colours used.
I don´t go for having loads of different shades in expensive Little 12ml pots that are specifically marketed at the Hobby.
First time I Held one in my Hand and smelt the Contents ..I said to myself.."aha!, Floor cleaner". I can´t remember the Name but it´s The type that gives the dry Floor a matt Shine.
I Did a test with the paints named below. Added a drop of Floor cleaner into the mix and guess what? The paint seemed to flow a wee bit better but the end result had a matt Shine. Also..the paint could, by Scratching with a finger nail, be peeled off. 

Acrylics naturally but the stuff from Hobby / Craft Shops, in my case Marabu, Kreul or Hobbyline. All give a matt finish unlike some paints I could Name which end up a bit shiny,  which, if a matt finish is wanted,  means paying out for overpriced, in some cases, Health and enviroment damaging, matting agents. IMHO, a waste of time and Money.
Big 50ml pots of the stuff for a couple of euros each. Black, White, Brown, Red, Yellow and Blue. 20ml pots of Gold and  Silver from Plaka or Rico..two more Hobby/Craft shop paint lines. They do have a wide range of Colours so an advantage  for those not familiar with a Colour Wheel or like having the Colour quick to Hand with no mixing. 

Also, ever considered who actually makes the tinsy winsy overpriced pots of paints? Does anyone really imagine they actually have a factory producing paints just for them?  Do some Research, you might be suprised. 

Ah, mixing. I use a pallette..an old CD or the like. Using the tip of the handle of the Paintbrush, I get a bit of paint out of the pot, wipe it on the CD, clean the handle and repeat the process with the next Colour. 

The mixing water..tap water with a drop of washing up liquid added. 

Brushes

Cheap n´cheerfull from Rico. None of this "ooh, I´ve got a Special non slip Turbo brush with LED´s,  some twonk firm Name on the side and instruction manuel in 16 languages" 
None of that helps if you´ve got no idea how to paint. Tinsy winsy brushes that are only visible with a Elektron micropscope   don´t help in getting a fine line. If the tips sharp and loaded with a decent measured amount of paint,  then, as the old saying goes, in this case, slightly turned on it´s head,   "size  doesn´t Count" .

Obviously, the same result won´t be achievable with a 3" wall paint brush but trying to reduce the size of the brush tip to microscopic Levels won´t make the tip any sharper. 


If one thinks it helps to have overpiced Colours and brushes, then fine but I don´t like the idea of feeding an Industry which, IMHO, by adding a brand Name to anything,  rips us off. The bods and vehicles cost enough as it is without chucking away more cash.


Do I wash the bods first? No. The base paint gets added and finish. Never had a Problem with flaking..and I´ve dropped enough to test wether the paint holds. Maybe there´s some sort of plastifier in the Hobby paints or "scrubbing" the paint on has some adhesive effect..TBH, I don´t know. 


OK...Paints and brushes covered. What Comes next is a Basic "how to" on painting. My technique is similar or the same as a lot of painters so basically, if you like the way you paint and the results, stop reading now. 

The Bod used is a Standard pose from the Airfix Waterloo British Infantry set. Cream softish plastic, bought ca. 1975. The head has been Twisted to the left to give a front facing "Ready" pose. 

First base paint. Black, Marabu/Kruel acrylic "scrubbed" on with an brush that was originally for fine painting, then lost it´s fine Point after being abused for dry brushing and ended up Looking a bit like a chimney sweeps brush.

Skin*
First I paint (using marbu acrylic Midbrown) the face and Hands. Arms and legs don´t really Need this stage but Hands and faces do. The midbrwon Acts as a Bridge between the black base and the final Colour.

Now I paint the Areas using a 50/50 mix of the mid Brown and Game colour Pale flesh (yes, I do have one or two "specialist Hobby paints" * :) )

I try to not paint the Areas between the fingers..not always with success.
Now I dry brush the same mix as stage two but with a tiny bit more pale flesh added. The drybrush goes only onto the raised Areas, nose,  ears, chin, cheeks, backs of Hands, etc

How much more pale flesh is added  depends largely on how well the percentages of the  stage two 50/50 mix worked. 
The Bod has now had his sideburns replaced (painted back)and the Wood parts of the musket painted with a midbrown/mid red** and a tiny bit of black mix (all Marabu or hobbyline acrylics)
Next..Clothes etc.

I like to and try to paint from the "inside out", to dress the Bods as it were, so the jacket is next.

A mid red with a touch of mid Brown (a mix of roughly 80-20% )

I try as far as possible to stay inside the lines, ie; paint ony what will eventually stay red but as will be seen, it isn´t necessary and trying (particually at this scale) is a pain.
Next, just the mid red as a drybrush. This may look a bit dark in the pics as there´s no contrast of the White belts yet, but when they are added it can be better judged as to wether the red is "scarlet" enough or another lighter drybrush Highlight is needed
Adding the "White bits"

Bit more difficult, especially the very thin lines like the ones around the cuffs, collar,  waistband and the hat.

TBH, you don´t Need a tiny brush to paint things like straps etc..a smallish one will do as it´s the tip of the brush that adds the paint, a sharp Point Counts, not the total size of the brush added to which a trick can be used to thin down the lines.

In the top pic the lines around the cuff, waistband, collar and hat are bigger than wanted so:
..in the bottom pic they have been "backpainted" with black as it´s easier to paint up to a line than paint the line.
Also, the Addition of the White has made the red visually brighter so it was, in this case, worth waiting to see if another Highlight was necessary.

I still might still add a Highlight but I´ll wait until I´ve added more Detail and painted a couple more (I usually paint 4 or 5 at a time) so I can see what a group  looks like. 
Cuffs etc added and Barrel/bayonet painted (silver with a bit of black added)
Now the trousers. (Note, Barrel and bayonet got a metal highlight) 
First a mid Grey  over the black base..then..
...a drybrush Highlight with  light Grey.
More or less finished. Buckle and Badge added
I mix all my own colour shades..basically all I Need is the Primary Colours added to  black and White and silver and Gold..although in reality I have a few more colours than that, one being a "european flesh" colour.

All that´s needed, a pallette ( I use old icecream or margarine tub lids - waste not, want not) and a cup of  mixing water with added flow enhancer (a drop or two of Window or floorcleaner)

The black/White mix is an example of how I mixed for the trousers,  the Brown/"flesh" mix for the faces..1 being (roughly) the shade of the second coat over the black base  and 2 the final (roughly) covering by drybrush.
**At this stage I usually "cheat" and add a bit of black to the Brown and paint Things like rifle stocks, spears, shoes and the like. Then add a bit of White and dry brush. Saves time and paint. 
Yellow..The Hobby shop yellows tend to be a bit..?.Meh! So a trick. I start with a mix of 50% mid Brown to 50% yellow and then highlight with 70% yellow to 30% Mid brown, final drybrush with yellow.....or add a bit of white to the last 70/30% mix.
Cold White, start with light Grey and highlight with White.
Warm White, White with a bit of mid Brown added, then a highlight with a lot less Brown and drybrush with White.
Blue? Depends on end effect wanted. Either start with a bit of black added to the blue or a bit of Brown. Either add White to the first mix to highlight, or more blue to the second mix.

Ok, the above aint going to win any prizes and I don´t always follow the above Methods depending on wether I´m painting an individual or the usual Batch of 4-5 at one sitting but it´s quick and for me, with practice, easy and, En masse, they look. IMHO,  ok
* Since creating this post I´ve started experimenting with using a mix of Brown/Yellow/White to create european Skin. Works fine and once you´ve got the hang of it, as quick as using and save having to buy an extra, a pot of "skin colour".